A Day of Travel

We woke up early this morning in order to catch the bus to Puno at 7:00 in the morning.  After breakfast (bread and hot chocolate), we had to say goodbye to our amazing host mother, Mery, before departing from Cusco.  Mery was so nice to all of us and we were really sad to say goodbye.

Us with Mery before our departure:

It was a bit bittersweet to leave Cusco.  We all really enjoyed our stay there.  However, we are excited to experience new things and visit new places in the next few days.

At 7:00, we boarded the bus for an all-day ride to Puno, which is right next to Lake Titicaca.  Luckily, there were several stops along the way.

Our first stop was at Andahuaylillas, a church originally built on top of an Inca temple by the Jesuits in the 17th century.

The church (unfortunately, we weren't allowed to take pictures inside):

This church is often referred to as the Sistine Chapel of America because there are amazing murals all over the walls and ceiling. During the 18th century, the Jesuits gained too much power and the Spanish drove them out of Peru.  At this point, the Dominicans took over the church, covering up many of the original murals with canvas paintings.  In addition, the Dominicans built an altar over the original Jesuit altar.  During the 19th century, Peru gained its independence and the Jesuits returned and regained control of the church.  It remains a Jesuit church to this day.  Two different pulpits on opposite sides of the church further demonstrate the mix of Jesuit and Dominican influences on the church.  One, built by the Jesuits, is decorated with gold and colorful murals.  The other, built by the Dominicans, is wooden and elaborately carved.

Our tour guide explained several of the painting within the church.  One of the important doorways is decorated with the phrase "I baptize you in the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit, Amen" in five different languages: Latin, Spanish, Quechua (the local language in the Cusco region), Aymara (spoken in the Puno region), and Pukina (a now extinct language).  The many paintings helped the Indigenous population learn the new religion brought with the Spaniards.  Most of the paintings were painted by Spanish-trained Andean painters, who often left hidden elements of the Andean culture in their paintings, such as Coca leaves and the Andean rose.

From there, we traveled on to our second stop at Raqchi, an Inca site.  This site was unlike all of the others we have visited so far.  There is a large temple there that was dedicated to the main Inca god, Wiraqocha.  Unlike other Inca temples, this temple had a large center wall built with both mud (combined with straw, llama and alpaca hair, and some human hair) and large stones.  On each side of this wall were eleven large columns that are believed to have held up the thatched roof.  This is the only Inca site where columns were used in the construction.  The large center wall included a large painting of Wiraqocha.  The temple was built because many of the people the Incas conquered had trouble believing in an invisible god like Wiraqocha.  Pachacutec, one of the most famous Inca kings, therefore decided to build this temple that included a visual of the god.

The temple:

The temple showing reconstructed column:

In addition to the temple, we were also able to view some of the buildings that housed the important Incas of the city.  The farmers and other lower-class workers lived outside of the city.  The houses of the important Incas resembled the temple of the town.  Raqchi was also the site where Incas came to "pay" their taxes with food, which were stored in large circular buildings for times of drought and famine.

Circular storage buildings:

Angie B. and Amy in one of the streets:

We stopped for 45 minutes for lunch at a nice restaurant with amazing views of the mountains and countryside.  The meal was buffet style and we all really enjoyed the food.

After an hour or so, we stopped again at "Abra la Raya", an artisan center with amazing views of the landscape.  This stop was short and we only had about 15 minutes to explore the goods the vendors were selling.

The welcome sign:

The alpaca yarn sold there:

The amazing view of the Andes Mountains:

Angie C., Beth, and Amy:

We then drove on to Pucara, known for its ceramics.  The Pucara civilization was a pre-Inca civilization that had advanced pottery-making skills.  We were able to view the kilns used both by the Pre-Incas and the Incas.  Originally, the Incas made ceramic llamas, which we were used to protect homes from harm.  When the Spanish conquered Peru, they replaced the idea with using bulls, which the townspeople still make today.  Also in Pucara, there is a small museum discussing the various historical cultures of the people who have lived in the area.  We were able to see three Inca mummies, which were placed in the fetal position because the Incas believed in the afterlife and just as we begin as fetuses, they believed we should return to the ground as fetuses.

Some of the bulls produced at Pucara:

A reproduction of an Inca-style kiln:

Reproduction of pre-Inca kiln:

Inca mummies:

On the drive from Pucara to our next stop, our guide told us about the economy and way of life in this part of the Andean mountain range.  Many years ago, the farmers leased the land from the wealthy land owners, but in the mid-twentieth century, the government returned much of the land to the farmers.  Unfortunately, most of the farmers don't have titles to prove that they own the land, which has caused many problems.  Our guide explained that most families in the countryside near Pucara have five or more kids, both because they lack access to birth control and because they need more kids in order to work the land. Because the kids are crucial to the success of the farms, the few schools that exist are only open for about six or seven months a year and attendance is sporadic.  There are only elementary schools.  In addition, many students have to walk many miles through the rough mountain terrain in bad weather in order to get to school.

From there, we headed to the city of Puno, passing through one of the larger cities in the Puno region.  When we arrived in Puno, our guide from the bus explained that most of the buildings are unfinished because residents aren't required to pay taxes on the extra square footage unless it is finished, so they often halt construction until they have more money.  Puno is known as the folkloric capital of Peru, and is particularly known for dance.  Each year during February, they celebrate the festival of the "Virgen de la Candelaria", a festival of dance.

After disembarking from the bus, we met our tour guide for the three days we are going to be in Puno and drove to our hotel.  Our guide, Percy, explained more about dance and explained what we are going to be doing in the next three days.  Tomorrow, we are visiting a couple of islands on Lake Titicaca, including the one on which our host family for tomorrow night lives.  It sounds like we are going to have a very packed full and fun three days in this area.

After unpacking and playing some cards, we ate dinner at the hotel restaurant.  The food was delicious.

We have to get up pretty early tomorrow, so we're heading to bed early tonight.

The Day of Bread and Ruins

We woke up a bit earlier than normal on Sunday to Mery's special bread and omlet breakfast--eggs filled with hot dogs and scallions. By 8:30, a bus pulled up outside our house to pick us up! Our new guide, Olmer was very enthusiastic on our bus ride to the southern region of Cusco to see Pikillacta and Tipon.

On the way, we made a pit stop at Huancarpay, an area containing a small town, a valley, and a lake. In Pre-Incan times, the small lake used to stretch across the entire valley, but today it is condensed to a small laguna that is is now considered a conservation. After taking a few photos, we hopped back into the bus to travel to Pikillacta! At Pikillacta, we saw an abundance of Pre-Incan architecture, mostly consisting of sections of walls. We also saw parts of a cemetary and a large enterway. Olmer told us that this place was most likely created by the Huwari group before the Incas or the Huarpas before them--although no one knows for sure. Unfortunately, the locals of the area have destroyed many parts of Pikillacta and only 5 percent of the total settlement can be seen today. We also learned a bit about the environment in Pikillacta. For example, it contains 35 species of humming birds and contains Maguay plants which are used to make paper. Olmer also pointed out the mountainous area nearby this area from which plaster is extracted. He also mentioned that the main problem in these mountains is the lack of water. It is very likely that within ten years, no water will be left in the areas near Pikillacta. It was sad to see how destroyed the ruins were and further, to learn about all of the environmental issues in this area. 

The view at Huacaray:

The entryway at Pikillacta:

Pikillacta Ruins:

Cemetary at Pikillacta:

After Pikillacta, we boarded the bus to Tipon. On the way, we made a pit stop at a bakery to buy break specially made in Cusco called Chuta. The bread not only smelled amazing, but had an elegant appearance as well, with different shapes imprinted in the center of he large round pieces. We were also able to see the large oven in wich bread is baked almost every morning. Before departing, our group bought some bread to give to our host families, and we also bought a bag of smaller pieces of break called mollete to snack on in the bus.

Chuta Bread:

The Bread Oven:

Just a few more zig-zags up the mountain side and our bus arrived at Tipon. Tipon literally means spring, since it contains a natural spring that is harnessed by a series of acueducts. The acueduct technology was quite advanced and the ruins show signs that it was part of the Incan Empire, as part of the Incan Trail is connected to it. Since Tipon is hidden up the mountains and cannot be viewed from, there are theories that is was built as a palace for the Incan King  to hide from enemies. Before the Incas, this site was most likely used by the Killky society, and Olmer surmises that during the Conquest of Peru, the Spanish most likely never arrived here. We walked around Tipon for a while, admiring the terraces and acueducts before returning to the bus for lunch. Our guide and driver provided us with a fressh box of meat and cheese empanadas, a delicacy that we were finally able to try for the first time. We also ate dellicious mandarins, cookies, and peace juice.

A view of Tipon:

The waterfalld and  acueducts at Tipon:

Empanadas:

After Tipon, we returned to the city of Cusco and headed to the San Pedro Market. Here, there are various clothing and souvenir shops, as well as a large area dedicated to produce, meats and other food. We were amazed to see three aisle of freshly made fruit joice, aisles with giant boar heads, and an aisle dedicated solely to chocolate (which tastes amazing, by the way). While our group roamed the market and spent time in a café, Dr. Shaw attended a Ballet, where she watched various interesting performances of different types of dance. 

San Pedro Market:

Photos from the Ballet:

Closer to dinner time, some of the group went to the Chocolate Museum near the Plaza de Armas in Cusco, while others relaxed in a small plaza nearby. Finally, we all reunited to eat dinner at an elegante restaurant called Incanto. The food here was delicious, including the bread appetizer and everyone was very satisfied. To conclude the night, we returned to our homestay where we made thank you cards for Mary and the Vera Family, ate some cake, and retired to our rooms to repack our bags for the next morning for a new adventure. Puno!

Dinner at Incanto (a plate of Quinotto):

Free Day in Cusco

We started today with pancakes (Panqueques)! We also had two different types of bread: Pan huaro and chuta. Both are so delicious that the phrase "más pan" (more bread) is heard often. We needed a good breakfast before our adventures throughout Cusco.

We first went to the bank where street painters offered canvas paintings for S/.75 ($30). Not a bad price, but we knew we were going to the market later. After the bank, we went to the Dirección Regional de Cultura Cusco: Museo Historico Regional. This museum explored Cusco's history in depth including the Pre-Incas to the 18th century.

Our guide spoke Spanish throughout our tour. First, he brought us into a room with a skeleton of a giant armadillo to represent the animals that early nomads would hunt for food. Then came the Pre-Incas which included Qatakaill, Killke, Lucre, Wari tribes and many more. And not too soon after, the Incas, 12,000-15,000 people strong, came with a culture all their own. One particular piece of their culture that I found fascinating was the process of making Chicha, a strong, corn-based beer. The Inca's created cone-shaped vases to ferment the Chicha because it helped the fermentation process. Then they would transport the Chicha in another cone-shaped vase called "Mak'a".

Other information that is worthy to note is about the last Inca: Tupa'q Amaru. He was the last person with royal Incan blood lineage. He inspired another man to take his name in order to lead a rebellion. This second Tupa'q fought for independence from the Spanish King and Church in 1781. He was dismembered by the Viceroys; however the name continued to inspire the people of Cusco to fight oppression.

One last influential part of Cusco's history is Garcilaso del Inca. He wrote the first official history of Peru and Cusco in his Reality Commentaries in 1572. He was born to a Spanish Captain as his father and to his mother who was Peruvian. The label mestizo (spanish and indigenous mix) was upheld by him not only in his writings but also in the shield he created which has two different designs to represent each culture.

After the museum, we couldn't wait to get lunch! Eullalia was a traditional restaurant where Beth had Trucha (trout), Amy, Dra. Shaw, Angela and I had the Roccoto Relleno (Stuffed Peppers), and Michael had Pollo (Chicken with potatoes and vegetables). And I can't forget that some of us had the infamous Inca Kola!

The rest of the day consisted of shopping in the open market where we bought much more than we intended due to our newly learned bargaining skills. We also went to a cafe for wifi to contact our families and friends. Then, to end the day, we  ate at the restaurants Ciccolina. The food we ate at lunch and here were the best we've had all week. Dra. Shaw, Angie, and I had the Tagliatelli with chicken and sautéed vegetables, and creamy sauce. Amy and Michael had Tagiolini with prawns, squid ink, coconut milk, ginger, lemon grass, and coriander. Finally, Beth had the Polenta with meat sauce. All in all, I could eat that food all day everyday!

El Día Profundo

On our fourth day of having literature class and going to the orphanage, we ate breakfast at the usual 9:00, which was once again wonderfully presented by Mery. Today she served us some fresh homemade hot chocolate, which was absolutely fantastic and rich even with no sugar in it. We also ate Chuta, a type of bread that can only be found in Cusco. 

The most interesting part of breakfast, however, was not the traditional food. Mery told us that the Peruvian government mandates that the high schools in Cusco teach the students Quechua, the native Andean language, as part of their curriculum. We were all pretty amazed to hear that, because we previously believed that the Quechua language was slipping from the main population back into just the mountain towns where it began and nothing was being done to prevent it. It appears that quite the opposite is true. Personally, I think it's wonderful that the schools are ensuring that the students learn such a deep-rooted part of Peruvian culture, because without these classes the population would slowly lose its grip on the native Peruvian cultures. 

Mery's family is actually a prime example. She and her husband can both speak Quechua, but don't do so regularly, so her own children don't really know the language. She's worried that her grandson, André, (who, as they say, is quite possibly "the cutest") will grow up without a firm grasp on the Quechua culture. My hope is that the high school Quechua classes return the importance of this language and culture to its proper place in Peruvian society. 

After breakfast, we would continue to discuss Quechua and the indigenous Peruvian's situation through José María Arguedas and his book Los Ríos Profundos. The book itself is essentially a fictionalized autobiography of Arguedas's life as a child. Arguedas was mestizo, (a mix of Spanish and indigenous blood) but had a stronger Spanish influence in his appearance. However, despite his appearance and social background, he identified much more with the native Peruvian culture. As he became more and more involved with the culture, he realized how poorly treated the indigenous population was, and was in fact on the receiving end of many travesties himself. In the novel, the narrator, Ernesto, is in a very similar situation. The story mainly follows him through high school as he both makes friends and sees the brutality of the world. From his interesting perspective as someone in between the indigenous and Spanish cultures, Ernesto offers the readers a unique view of the relationship between the two groups of people.

After discussing the book, we ate pasta with a creamy sauce filled with vegetables and beef. For desert we had a delicious chocolate pudding. 

After eating we went to the orphanage. I returned to the same casita as the day before (this time with a little help from Angela) with all of the older boys in it. Today was strictly a work day, so we didn't get to play with the color-in soccer ball that we decorated yesterday. Angela and I helped out a young boy that on our first day at the orphanage I nick-named "Tarzan" (he never sat down on the swings) with his homework on the parts of the eyes and ears. 

Now, neither Angela and I have studied anatomy for quite a while. So once the homework started asking for the inner parts of the eye in all honesty we were both pretty lost. Thank goodness Tarzan took notes from class, so with our combined knowledge we helped him to focus and finish his homework. 

At Amy's casita the kids started off by playing with her hair, which appears to be a reoccurring theme. Afterward they took out a box full of masks and tried them on. Finally, it was time for homework, and Amy ensured that the kids concentrated and got it done. 

Angie and Beth were in the casita with the younger group of kids. Their favorite memory is of the 6 month old baby girl bubbling with laughter every time that someone started dancing in the small living room. 

However, their casita quickly turned into a hair salon as you can clearly see...  

After having heard Mery's talk about the Quechua classes in high school, I was very happy to find a Spanish-Quechua dictionary on a shelf in our casita. It appears that Quechua is in fact back on the rise. 

Here are a few more photos from the orphanage today, including a few girls showing a remarkable feat of strength by picking up yours truly. 

After the orphanage we dropped by the mall for a few minutes and then returned to Mery's house. After resting for a little bit we went out to the Plaza de Armas for dinner. Just off the plaza there is a restaurant named Mesón de Espaderos and it is absolutely fantastic.

Mesón's main speciality is in meats. Beth, Dra. Shaw, and I got grilled steak; Amy had tomato soup and chicken kabobs; Angie had grilled steak topped with marinara sauce and cheese; and Angela got an alpaca steak, which I tried and was very tasty. I definitely wouldn't need any prodding to go back there again. 

Alpaca

From Mesón, we returned to Mery's house for the night. Tomorrow is going to be our last day at the orphanage, and it's going to be awfully hard to say goodbye. 

Viernes: A Day of Lasts

     After eating a wonderful breakfast of hard boiled eggs and bread courtesy of our host family, we went to Yure's house for our last formal class. We talked about the life of Mario Vargas Llosa and his essay "La civilización del espectáculo." In this work, Vargas Llosa uses an elitist tone to argue that many people in developed countries are concerned more about being entertained than learning actual facts about the world.

Here is a picture of where we have been having class during the last week:

      We had to finish class a half hour earlier than usual because unfortunately, Amy was very sick. Dra. Shaw and Yure took her to a clinic. When they came back, Amy had a list of medicines to take and only good things to say about her experience. She said that she did not have to wait very long to see a doctor, the doctors and nurses thoroughly explained everything she needed to know about her medicines, and that the cost was extremely reasonable.

     We ate our last lunch at Yure's house once they returned.

     After class, we went to the orphanage for our last time. Although Amy was feeling significantly better, Beth was sick, so she stayed at Mery's house in order to rest. In the casitas that Amy, Angie B., and Michael were in, the children worked on their homework and drew pictures. After spending four previous days with us, the orphans were definitely comfortable around us and allowed us to take some pictures, as you can see below.

     In my casita, the orphans were very excited to go to the birthday party of their mother's cousin. We worked on homework for an hour before their mother gave them all a bath and dressed them up for the party. The girls loved to twirl and dance in their dresses.

Here is a picture of them and their mother all dressed up:

           Then came the hardest part of the day. We had to say goodbye to all the children and the director Margot. I can confidently say that no one wanted to leave. We all enjoyed helping and playing with the children because they were so energetic and needed the attention. It was easy to become attached to the children, and it was a humbling experience overall. We are hoping to put together packages to send to the orphanage once we are back in the United States.

One last picture at the orphanage:

     When we arrived back at our host family's house, we had to finish our last formal lesson. We talked about Vargas Llosa's short story "El Abuelo." Although it does not represent the themes that he usually writes about, it does demonstrate his descriptive style of writing.

     After class, we went to dinner at a restaurant called Chicha and ate Peruvian food. Here is a picture of one dinner that three people in our group ate. It is called Rocoto Relleno and consists of a pepper with a filling of meat, cheese, and spices.

     When we returned to the house, we played cards and ate cake.